Described as the best producer of modern-day Chenin Blanc in France, Claude Papin is a perfectionist and a producer of true "vins the terroir". During a visit to Papin’s estate in 2007 we discovered just how good his wines were and how passionate he is about them.
Papin also introduced us to his philosophy of wine:
At the core of the Papin philosophy lie three components - terroir, polyphenols and botrytis. Papin, a former President of the Technical Institute of the Vine and of Wine, works hard to ensure that his wines are what he calls vins de terroir rather than vins de varieté; that is to say they express some aspect of their origin rather than simple, grape-derived characteristics alone. Papin believes that the development of polyphenols in the wine makes a significant contribution to vinous complexity and the expression of terroir, and that botrytis also has an important role to play.
The interplay between botrytis, polyphenols and the preservation of terroir-based complexity can be resumed as follow:
As grapes ripen the sugar concentration increases, but at a certain point they also reach physiological maturity, signified by the change in colour of the pips (green to yellow).
This is an important point in the development of the grape, as physiological maturity influences the style and type of tannins and acidity in the final wine.
At this time Claude Papin hopes for the onset of botrytis infection.
Rapid shrivelling of the grapes as a result of botrytis will result in a vin de terroir. By contrast, slow botrytis infection results in a vin de variete, as a slow and prolonged infection, may destroys the sought-after polyphenols.
“Claude Papin of Ch Pierre Bise is one of the most talented wine growers in this part of the world, a true vine technician, and has proved it over the long term.” Jancis Robinson
"This combines power and grace, with candied orange and ginger, maple and brown butter notes riding atop a vibrant minerally spine. Then everything cascades together on the lengthy finish. Drink now through 2013."
