DOMINIO DE ATAUTA, Ribera del Duero
“On the far eastern edge of Ribera del Duero, the town of Atauta overlooks a hidden canyon, Valde Gatiles, its floor covered with ancient Tempranillo vines. From this canyon a remarkable new red wine has emerged: Dominio de Atauta. Made from vines that are survivors from the pre-Phylloxera era, Dominio de Atauta offers that rare combination of compelling quality and extraordinary origins. Vines were first planted in Atauta over a thousand years ago. The people who tended those vines also built dozens of limestone winecellars which surreally dot the landscape. In modern times, these cellars—and the vines that supplied them—were abandoned.
Rediscovering Atauta’s Past
A prominent Madrid wine merchant, Miguel Sanchez, grew up near Atauta. When he left, he had little idea that Atauta was anything but a sleepy, aging town. The few remaining local growers, however, noted his success. In 1995, they asked him for help in marketing their wines. Miguel quickly found a market for them but, in the process, he also discovered what a viticultural treasure the zone possessed. Everywhere he looked, he saw small neglected plots of ancient Tempranillo vines, poorly maintained and entirely unpruned. He also realized that virtually every vine was ungrafted —consequence of Phylloxera sidestepping Atauta in its march across northern Spain a century ago. Today, Atauta is a priceless rarity in the wine world: a sea of ungrafted vines, many exceeding 100 years of age.
Bringing Atauta Back
Miguel understood the area’s potential and began acquiring vineyards—a slow, painstaking and delicate process given their parcelized (and often forgotten) ownership. He also went in search of a winemaker to bring his project to fruition. After consulting colleagues in several countries, he chose a talented young Frenchman, Bertrand Sourdais, who had interned at Mouton Rothschild and Leoville Las Cases and with Alvaro Palacios. Bertrand had plenty to do when he joined Miguel during the summer of 1999. His primary challenge was to rehabilitate the neglected vineyards—a project that continues today. He also helped design a gravity-fed winery and a program of biodynamic viticulture, allowing no chemicals or fertilizers to be used at Atauta.
The Wine
Atauta lies an hour east, and a quarter mile higher, than most Ribera del Duero vineyards. Night time temperatures are considerably cooler, leading to a “freshness” that few other Ribera’s can match. This purity of fruit drew Bertrand in, and it is what he aims to shepherd through the winemaking process. Fermented with indigenous yeast, Atauta is aged in barrique, much of it year-old barrels from Ch. L’Angelus. About 25% of the barriques are new, including a few prized Darnajou casks. Yet, so great is the wine’s concentration, there is little evidence of oak in its seductive flavour profile. There is also a delicacy that belies the wine’s typical 13.5% alcohol and a black fruit and garrigue character that distinguishes it among top Ribera del Duero wines. In addition to the regular Atauta bottling, Bertrand and Miguel plan to make single-vineyard cuvées in most years, including tiny lots from 150-year-old vines.
The wines of Dominio de Atauta are a must for anyone who seeks not just pleasure in a wine but, with every sip and smell, to explore its origins.” The Rare Wine Co.
“Atauta comes from 60- to 150-year-old, biodynamically farmed, mostly ungrafted Tempranillo bush vines.
The wine is aged in 100% French oak of which 20% is new. Dark ruby/purple in colour, it has an expressive nose of spice box, coffee, black cherry and blackberry. Made in a racy style, with good acidity, this wine admirably combines ripe, sweet fruit with elegance. Drink it over the next 6-8 years. Kudos to Dominio Atauta!”
Wine Advocate 92pts
